Shower Repair Woking | Electric, Mixer & Thermostatic Shower Repairs
The Maintenance Plumber provides shower repair across Woking and surrounding Surrey areas. We diagnose and repair electric showers, mixer showers, thermostatic showers, power showers and shower pumps — covering low pressure, no hot water, leaks, dripping showers, temperature fluctuations and failed cartridges.
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Types of Shower Repairs We Cover in Woking
We work on all common shower types found in Woking homes — from electric showers on mains cold supply to thermostatic mixers on combi and gravity-fed systems. Each shower type has its own common failure modes, and the repair approach differs accordingly.
Electric Shower Repairs
Electric showers heat water on demand using an internal heating element. They require a cold mains water supply and a dedicated electrical connection. Common faults include:
- Shower not powering on — may indicate a blown fuse, tripped RCD, failed isolation switch, or a fault within the shower's PCB
- No hot water — typically a failed heating element (heating can), tripped thermal cut-out, or a stuck solenoid valve preventing water from reaching the heating tank
- Temperature fluctuations — often caused by scale on the heating element, a failing thermal cut-out, or variable inlet water temperature
- Poor flow — may indicate a blocked inlet filter, scale in the shower head, or low mains water pressure to the unit
- Tripping or electrical symptoms — a failing heating element can short and trip the RCD; this requires immediate attention
Where a fault is electrical in nature rather than plumbing-related — such as a wiring, fuseboard, or RCD issue — a qualified electrician may be required. We handle the plumbing and component-level replacements (elements, solenoid valves, shower units); we will advise clearly if an electrical professional is needed.
Mixer Shower Repairs
Mixer showers blend hot and cold water through a single valve. They can be fed from a combi boiler, a gravity-fed hot water cylinder, or a mains-fed unvented cylinder. Common faults include:
- Failed cartridges — the internal ceramic disc cartridge controls flow and temperature; over time, the ceramic discs or O-rings wear, causing drips or stiffness
- Dripping controls — worn seals within the cartridge allow water to pass when the shower is off
- Stiff controls — limescale accumulation on the cartridge stem or corroded internal components make the handle difficult to turn
- Temperature problems — if the mixer is not thermostatic, temperature can fluctuate when other outlets draw cold water
- Low flow — blocked inlet filters, scale in the shower head, or a restriction in the supply pipework
- Diverter problems — on bath shower mixers, the diverter mechanism can fail, preventing water from routing to the shower head
Thermostatic Shower Repairs
Thermostatic mixer showers regulate water temperature automatically using a thermostatic cartridge. This cartridge contains a wax element or bi-metallic spring that adjusts the hot-cold mix in response to pressure and temperature changes. Common faults include:
- Fluctuating temperatures — a degraded thermostatic cartridge can no longer maintain a stable mix, causing sudden hot or cold bursts
- Cartridge faults — the wax element inside the cartridge loses sensitivity over time, typically after 5–10 years depending on water hardness and usage
- Temperature regulation problems — the shower may run too hot or too cold, or the maximum temperature limit stop may need recalibration
- Blocked inlet filters — scale and debris in the inlet strainers restrict flow to the cartridge, affecting its ability to regulate temperature
- Calibration issues — after replacing a cartridge, the temperature limit stop must be recalibrated to the user's preferred maximum
Power Shower and Shower Pump Problems
Power showers and pumped shower systems use an electric pump to boost water pressure on gravity-fed systems. They require a dedicated hot and cold supply from a cold water storage tank and a hot water cylinder. Common faults include:
- Pump not operating — may indicate a failed pressure switch, a blown fuse, air in the pump, or a failed motor
- Low pressure — could be a worn impeller, blocked inlet filters, or insufficient water in the cold water storage tank
- Noisy pumps — air in the system, debris in the impeller, worn bearings, or cavitation caused by the pump drawing more water than the supply can deliver
- Intermittent operation — often caused by a failing pressure switch, air ingress through a damaged pipe, or the pump cycling due to a leak downstream
- Flow problems — restricted flow on one side (hot or cold) can cause the pump to run incorrectly or not at all
Digital Shower Faults
Digital showers use an electronic control unit and a remote-actuated mixing valve. They offer precise temperature control and programmable settings. We can assist with:
- Communication errors between the controller and the mixing unit
- Temperature or flow issues stemming from the mixing valve
- Pump-related faults on pumped digital systems
- Supply and installation of replacement mixing valves and controllers
For software or PCB-level faults on specific digital shower brands, we diagnose the issue and advise whether a manufacturer-approved engineer or replacement control unit is required.
Common Shower Problems We Repair
Below we explain the likely causes behind the most common shower faults we encounter across Woking — and why the visible symptom does not always point to the actual cause. Each problem requires inspection before a definitive diagnosis can be made.
My shower is leaking
Likely Causes
Leaks can originate from the shower valve body, the connection between the valve and the outlet elbow or riser, the shower hose, the shower head joint, or the silicone seals behind the tiling. In mixer and thermostatic showers, internal cartridge O-rings degrade over time and allow water to track through the valve body.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
Water tracking along pipework, tiles, or gravelling can emerge some distance from the actual leak source. A damp patch or stain on a ceiling below the bathroom may not sit directly beneath the point where water is entering — water follows the path of least resistance along joists and pipe runs.
What Should Be Inspected
All accessible connections on the valve, hose, and shower head. The silicone seal between the shower tray and wall. The waste fitting. Where the leak is concealed behind tiling, a moisture meter or thermal inspection may help locate the source before any tiles are removed.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Replace failed O-rings or cartridges, tighten or reseal threaded connections, or re-seal the tray and enclosure. Where the leak originates behind tiling, access may be needed — we keep this to the minimum necessary and advise on making good.
My shower has low pressure
Likely Causes
Scale accumulation in the shower head, blocked inlet filters in the shower valve, a partially closed isolation valve, a failing shower pump, or low mains water pressure. On gravity-fed systems, insufficient head height between the cold water storage tank and the shower can cause poor flow even when the system is otherwise functional.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
Low pressure at one shower but not at other outlets may indicate a restriction in that particular supply pipe — a kinked pipe, a scaled-up section, or a partially closed isolation valve — rather than a system-wide pressure issue. Replacing the shower head alone may not resolve the problem.
What Should Be Inspected
The shower head for scale build-up, the inlet filters in the valve, all isolation valves on the shower supply, and where applicable the pump and cold water storage tank. A flow rate test at the shower outlet compared with other outlets helps isolate whether the restriction is local or system-wide.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Descale or replace the shower head, clean inlet filters, fully open isolation valves, repair or replace a faulty pump, or advise on pressure-boosting options. Where low mains pressure is the root cause, a pump or different shower type may be recommended.
My shower is running cold
Likely Causes
In electric showers, a failed heating element or tripped thermal cut-out. In mixer and thermostatic showers fed from a hot water cylinder, a failed motorised valve, an empty or cold cylinder, or an airlock in the hot water supply. On combi boiler systems, the boiler may not be firing, or the flow rate through the boiler may be too low to activate it.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
A shower running cold may not indicate a shower fault at all. The issue may lie with the boiler, the hot water cylinder, the motorised valve directing hot water to the cylinder, or an electrical supply problem. Diagnosing a cold shower requires checking the entire hot water chain, not just the shower unit.
What Should Be Inspected
Whether other hot water outlets in the property are working. The boiler status and fault codes. The hot water cylinder temperature. For electric showers, whether the unit receives power and whether the isolation switch is on. The heating element continuity and solenoid valve operation.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Replace the electric shower heating element, repair or replace a motorised valve, clear airlocks in the hot water pipework, or advise if the fault lies with the boiler and a heating engineer is needed.
My shower is running hot and cold
Likely Causes
In thermostatic showers, a failed thermostatic cartridge unable to regulate the hot-cold mix. On combi systems, flow rate fluctuations or boiler modulation issues. On gravity-fed systems with a pump, the pump switching on and off due to air or a failing pressure switch. Cross-flow between hot and cold supplies through a failing internal seal.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
Temperature fluctuation can also be caused by other outlets drawing cold water while the shower is in use — a toilet flush, a kitchen tap, or a washing machine — especially on unbalanced supplies where there is no pressure-balancing valve. The shower itself may be functional; the supply conditions are the issue.
What Should Be Inspected
The thermostatic cartridge. Whether opening other taps in the house affects the shower temperature. The shower's inlet pressure balance. Whether the fluctuation happens at specific times of day (suggesting demand-related pressure drops).
Possible Repair or Replacement
Replace the thermostatic cartridge, install or check pressure-balancing valves, or advise on supply balancing if other outlets affect the shower temperature. On pumped systems, investigate and resolve pump cycling.
My shower will not turn off
Likely Causes
A seized or broken on/off mechanism in the shower valve. In mixer showers, a failed ceramic disc cartridge stuck in the open position. In electric showers, a stuck solenoid valve that remains open, or a failed PCB sending a continuous signal.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
A shower that will not turn off may have a mechanical failure in the valve body rather than just the handle. The internal cartridge can seize due to scale, corrosion, or a broken ceramic disc — turning the handle does nothing because the internal mechanism is stuck.
What Should Be Inspected
The valve mechanism, the on/off cartridge, and whether the handle moves freely. In electric showers, the solenoid valve operation and the PCB. If the shower is electric and won't stop flowing, the isolation switch should be turned off immediately.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Replace the failed cartridge or solenoid valve. In some cases, the complete shower valve may need replacement if internal components are discontinued. If water is flowing and cannot be stopped, turn off the isolation valve and call us immediately.
My shower is dripping
Likely Causes
In mixer and thermostatic showers, worn ceramic discs or degraded O-rings in the cartridge. In electric showers, a failing solenoid valve not closing fully, or an internal seal failure. Scale build-up on the cartridge seating prevents the ceramic discs from forming a clean seal.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
A shower head that drips for a short while after the shower is turned off is likely just residual water draining from the hose and riser — this is normal. However, persistent dripping that continues for more than a few minutes indicates a seal or cartridge failure within the valve.
What Should Be Inspected
Whether the drip continues after several minutes. The cartridge and internal seals. On electric showers, the solenoid valve and microswitch. Whether the dripping worsens over time, indicating progressive seal wear.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Replace the cartridge or the internal seals. On electric showers, replace the solenoid valve if it is not closing fully. A dripping shower wastes significant water over time and should not be ignored.
My electric shower is not heating
Likely Causes
Failed heating element (heating can), tripped thermal cut-out, failed PCB, blown fuse or tripped RCD, or a stuck solenoid valve preventing water from reaching the heating tank. Scale on the heating element can also cause insufficient heating — the water flows but never reaches full temperature.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
An electric shower producing only cold water may still be receiving power. The fault often lies in the heating can itself, the thermal cut-out (a safety device that trips if the shower overheats), or the microswitch that activates the heating element when water flows through the unit. The solenoid valve may also fail — water flows but the heating element is never triggered.
What Should Be Inspected
Whether the unit receives power (the power indicator light, if fitted). Whether the isolation switch is on. The heating element continuity using a multimeter. The thermal cut-out for continuity. The solenoid valve operation and the microswitch.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Replace the heating element, reset or replace the thermal cut-out, replace the PCB, or replace the solenoid valve. Where the fault is electrical in nature — wiring, fuseboard, or RCD-related — a qualified electrician may be required, and we will advise accordingly.
My shower has stopped working
Likely Causes
A complete loss of function could be any combination of the above — a failed cartridge, a blocked inlet, a pump failure, an electrical fault, or a water supply issue. Systematic diagnosis is required to avoid replacing parts unnecessarily.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
Stopped working is a broad symptom. The actual fault could be mechanical (cartridge, valve), electrical (PCB, element, solenoid), or supply-related (no water, no hot water, blocked filter). Without inspection, guessing at the cause risks buying parts that are not needed.
What Should Be Inspected
Water supply to the shower (both hot and cold). Electrical supply for electric showers. The valve mechanism and cartridge. The pump if fitted. Whether any other plumbing in the house is affected, which would indicate a broader supply issue.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Depends entirely on diagnosis — cartridge replacement, pump repair, element replacement, clearing a blockage, or resolving a supply issue. We diagnose before recommending a repair, so you only pay for the work that is actually needed.
My shower pump is noisy
Likely Causes
Air in the pump, debris in the impeller, worn bearings, incorrect installation (pump not correctly positioned, inadequate anti-vibration mounting, or pipework not adequately clipped), or the pump cycling on and off rapidly due to a leak or air ingress downstream.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
A noisy pump may also indicate cavitation — the pump is trying to draw more water than the supply can deliver. This is often caused by scaled-up pipework, a blocked inlet filter, or insufficient head of water from the cold water storage tank. The noise is a symptom of the pump struggling, not necessarily a pump fault.
What Should Be Inspected
The pump location and installation. Pipework for air ingress points. The impeller for debris. The water supply to the pump inlets — both hot and cold. Whether the noise is continuous or intermittent (intermittent suggests cycling).
Possible Repair or Replacement
Bleed air from the pump, clean the impeller and inlet filters, replace worn bearings or the complete pump, and correct any installation issues. If cavitation is the cause, the supply pipework or tank may need attention rather than the pump itself.
My shower waste is leaking
Likely Causes
Failed compression or push-fit joint on the waste pipe, cracked waste fitting, failed silicone seal between the waste flange and the shower tray, or a blockage causing water to back up and leak from a joint that would otherwise be watertight.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
Water appearing around the base of the shower may be tracking from the waste connection, the tray seal, or the enclosure door seals. The visible water does not always indicate which is at fault. A leak that only appears when the shower is in use points to the waste or enclosure; a leak that appears when the shower is off points to the valve or supply pipework.
What Should Be Inspected
The waste fitting from below if accessible (e.g. from a cupboard or ceiling below). The silicone seal around the waste flange. The waste trap. The pipe connections. Run the shower and observe where water first appears.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Re-seal or replace the waste fitting, replace the trap, or re-make the pipe connections. Clear any blockage if present. If the waste flange seal has failed, the tray may need to be re-sealed around the waste outlet.
My shower tray appears to be leaking
Likely Causes
Failed silicone seal between the tray and the wall or enclosure, a crack in the tray itself, movement in the tray breaking the seal (often caused by inadequate support beneath the tray), or a leak from the waste fitting beneath the tray.
Why the Symptom May Not Identify the Cause
Water appearing around the shower tray may be coming from the enclosure seals, the shower valve behind the wall, or the waste connection — not necessarily the tray itself. Flexible shower trays that flex under weight will repeatedly break silicone seals, and the only lasting fix is to address the support beneath the tray.
What Should Be Inspected
All silicone seals around the tray — the wall junction, the enclosure base, and the waste flange. The tray surface for hairline cracks. The waste fitting. The enclosure door seals and bottom track. Where the leak is behind or beneath the tray, access from below may be needed to inspect properly.
Possible Repair or Replacement
Re-seal the tray with appropriate sanitary silicone, repair or replace a cracked tray, re-seal or replace the waste fitting, or replace enclosure seals. Where tray movement is the root cause, the tray may need re-bedding or additional support before re-sealing.
How We Diagnose Shower Problems
Accurate diagnosis is the difference between a repair that lasts and one that fails again in a few weeks. We follow a systematic process on every callout — we do not guess, and we do not replace parts speculatively.
Understand the reported fault
We listen to your description of the problem — when it happens, how often, and under what conditions.
Establish when the problem started
Knowing whether the fault appeared suddenly or developed gradually helps narrow the likely cause.
Identify constant vs intermittent
A fault that happens every time the shower is used is easier to diagnose than one that occurs only occasionally. Intermittent faults may relate to other outlets, time of day, or system demand.
Check the shower and accessible components
We inspect the shower valve, shower head, hose, isolation valves, inlet filters, and where accessible the supply pipework and waste connection.
Assess water flow and temperature
We test flow rate at the shower head and compare it with other outlets. We check whether hot water is reaching the shower and whether the temperature is stable.
Investigate the likely source
Using the information gathered, we identify the most probable cause — whether it lies within the shower unit, the supply pipework, the pump, or the wider hot water system.
Explain the repair options
We explain what we have found, what the repair involves, and the cost. Where multiple options exist (repair vs replacement), we set them out clearly.
Agree the work before proceeding
No work starts without your approval. We provide a clear price and explain what is included before any parts are fitted or pipework disturbed.
Test the shower after repair
After completing the repair, we test the shower for flow, temperature stability, and leaks before considering the job done.
We do not promise a specific result before inspection. Shower faults can have multiple contributing causes, and the correct repair can only be confirmed after on-site testing. We explain what we find and agree the work with you before proceeding.
When Should a Shower Be Repaired Rather Than Replaced?
There is no universal answer. The right decision depends on several factors, and we discuss each one with you before recommending a course of action. We do not automatically recommend replacement — in many cases, a cartridge or element replacement restores full function at a fraction of the cost of a new shower.
Factors We Consider
Age of the shower
Showers typically last 8–12 years depending on water hardness and usage. Older units may be approaching the end of their serviceable life.
Availability of parts
If cartridges, elements, or PCBs are discontinued by the manufacturer, repair may not be possible and replacement becomes the only option.
Condition of the shower
Heavy scale accumulation, corroded internals, or a cracked valve body may make repair uneconomical.
Cost of repair vs replacement
If a repair costs more than half the price of a new unit, replacement may offer better long-term value — especially on older showers.
Repeated failures
If the same component has failed repeatedly, or multiple parts are failing in succession, replacement may be more cost-effective than continued repairs.
Scale damage
In Surrey's hard water area, scale accumulation inside the shower body can cause ongoing issues that individual part replacements will not fully resolve.
Manufacturer support
Some manufacturers offer longer warranties or spare parts availability. We check whether your shower is still supported before recommending a course of action.
Condition of associated pipework
If the supply pipework or isolation valves are also in poor condition, it may make sense to address everything at once rather than repair the shower in isolation.
Customer requirements
Some customers prefer to upgrade to a more efficient or feature-rich shower. We provide honest advice and let you decide.
In our experience across Woking homes, most shower faults are cartridge or seal-related and can be repaired economically. We will always tell you if replacement is the better option — and if it is, we supply and fit new showers with a 12-month warranty.
Shower Repairs Across Woking and Surrounding Areas
Based in Woking, we provide shower repair throughout the town and neighbouring communities. Whether you are in a period property in Horsell, a modern development in Goldsworth Park, or a home in Knaphill or Pyrford, we attend promptly and carry common shower spares on the van.
Related Services and Resources
We provide a full range of plumbing services across Woking and Surrey. The following pages may be useful depending on your situation:
Shower Repair Costs in Woking
These are typical price ranges for common shower repairs across Woking and Surrey. The exact cost depends on the shower type, the parts required, and the complexity of access. We always provide a fixed price before starting any work.
Typical Shower Repair Prices — 2026
Prices are estimates and include parts and labour. A fixed price is given before any work starts. The final cost may vary depending on access, shower brand, and parts availability.
Shower Repair FAQs — Woking
How much does shower repair cost in Woking?
Shower repairs in Woking typically range from £80 to £220 depending on the fault. A thermostatic cartridge replacement is usually £100–£180 including parts, and an electric shower element replacement is typically £120–£200. We provide a fixed price before starting any work, so you know the cost upfront. The exact price depends on the shower type and the parts required.
Can you repair a leaking shower?
Yes. We repair leaking shower valves, hoses, shower heads, waste connections, tray seals, and enclosure seals. Because water can track along surfaces and pipework before becoming visible, we inspect all accessible connections to identify the actual source rather than just the visible symptom. The repair may involve replacing O-rings, cartridges, or re-sealing the tray and enclosure.
Can you replace a shower cartridge?
Yes — we replace thermostatic cartridges, mixer cartridges, and ceramic disc cartridges. We carry common cartridges on the van, and if a specific cartridge is needed we source it and return to complete the repair. After replacement, we test temperature regulation and flow to confirm the fault is resolved.
Why is my shower losing pressure?
Low shower pressure can be caused by scale in the shower head, blocked inlet filters in the valve, a partially closed isolation valve, a failing shower pump, or low mains water pressure. On gravity-fed systems, insufficient head height between the cold water storage tank and the shower can also reduce flow. We test the flow rate at the shower and compare it with other outlets to isolate the cause.
Why is my shower running hot and cold?
Temperature fluctuation in a thermostatic shower usually indicates a failed thermostatic cartridge that can no longer regulate the hot-cold mix. On combi boiler systems, it can be caused by flow rate fluctuations or boiler modulation issues. Other taps drawing cold water while the shower is in use can also affect temperature on unbalanced supplies. We inspect the cartridge and check whether other outlets affect the shower.
Can you repair a thermostatic shower?
Yes. We repair thermostatic showers by replacing failed cartridges, cleaning blocked inlet filters, and recalibrating the temperature limit stop. Most thermostatic shower faults are cartridge-related and can be resolved without replacing the entire shower unit. The thermostatic cartridge typically lasts 5–10 years depending on water hardness and usage.
Can you repair a mixer shower?
Yes. We repair mixer showers including failed cartridges, dripping controls, stiff handles, diverter problems, and low flow. Mixer shower cartridges degrade over time as the ceramic discs and O-rings wear — replacement of the cartridge usually restores full function without needing a new shower.
Why is my electric shower not heating?
An electric shower producing only cold water may have a failed heating element, a tripped thermal cut-out, a failed PCB, or a stuck solenoid valve preventing water from reaching the heating tank. The shower may still be receiving power — the fault often lies in the heating can or the microswitch that activates the element when water flows. We test the element, thermal cut-out, and solenoid to identify the failed component.
Can a shower pump be repaired?
Yes — we repair and replace shower pumps on gravity-fed systems. Common faults include air in the pump, debris in the impeller, worn bearings, and cycling caused by air ingress or leaks. Where a pump is beyond repair or parts are unavailable, we can supply and fit a replacement pump. We also check the supply pipework, as cavitation caused by restricted flow can mimic a pump fault.
Should I repair or replace my shower?
This depends on the shower's age, the availability of spare parts, the cost of repair relative to replacement, and whether the shower has had repeated failures. We give honest advice — if a repair is cost-effective and likely to last, we recommend it. If the shower is old, parts are discontinued, or scale damage is extensive, replacement may be better value. We discuss all options before proceeding.
Why will my shower not turn off?
A shower that will not turn off usually has a seized or broken on/off mechanism — a failed ceramic disc cartridge in a mixer shower, or a stuck solenoid valve in an electric shower. If water is flowing and cannot be stopped, turn off the isolation switch or stopcock immediately and call us. We replace the failed component, or where parts are unavailable, the complete valve.
Can a leaking shower waste be repaired?
Yes. We repair leaking shower wastes by re-sealing or replacing the waste fitting, replacing the trap, or re-making the pipe connections. If the leak is caused by a blockage backing up water, we clear the blockage and check the seals. The waste flange seal where the waste meets the shower tray can also fail and may need re-sealing.
Do you repair shower tray leaks?
Yes. We identify whether the leak is from the silicone seal between the tray and wall, a crack in the tray, the waste fitting beneath the tray, or the enclosure seals. We re-seal, repair, or replace as needed. Where tray movement is causing recurring seal failures, we advise on additional support beneath the tray before re-sealing.
How long does a shower repair take?
Most shower repairs are completed in 1–2 hours. Cartridge replacements typically take 45–90 minutes. Electric shower element replacements take around 60–90 minutes. If a specific part needs to be ordered, we complete the diagnosis on the first visit and return to fit the part. We test the shower fully for flow, temperature, and leaks before leaving.
Do you cover Knaphill and Horsell for shower repairs?
Yes — we cover all Woking postcodes including Knaphill, Horsell, St John's, Goldsworth Park, Mayford, Old Woking, Pyrford, West Byfleet, and Chobham. We also cover wider Surrey including Guildford, Weybridge, and Addlestone. Call 07714 433 429 to arrange a shower repair visit.
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